Tuscan Trails: Biking from the Apennines to the Sea
by Janis Jendraß, Digital Nomad
1. From Mountains to the Coast
I finally waved goodbye to Caprese Michelangelo, leaving the winding roads of the Apennines behind me. The descent towards the coast was a reward in itself, with every kilometer bringing warmer air, the scent of salt and pine, and a completely new landscape. The bike felt like it was flying.
Although my daily mileage has increased on the flatter terrain, I’ve realised the true measure of this journey isn’t in the distance covered. It's the intangible feeling of freedom as you pedal towards the horizon, with no real plan other than the direction of the sea.
Packing layers is essential for a trip like this. A chilly mountain morning can turn into a scorching coastal afternoon in just a few hours of riding. A windbreaker is your best friend.
2. Wild Encounters of the Tuscan Kind
I’ve been making my camp in the quiet dunes near the coast, hidden away from the world. This solitude, however, comes with company. The first few nights were filled with the sound of wild boar snorting and rummaging just beyond my tent. An unnerving, but ultimately harmless, reminder that I am a guest in their home.
The real test came a few nights ago. A sound that wasn't the wind or the waves woke me up. Peeking out, I saw two points of light reflecting my headlamp—a wolf, not more than thirty meters away, watching me intently. We locked eyes for what felt like an eternity before it silently melted back into the darkness. That kind of primal fear gives you a fresh perspective on everything.
3. Sun, Ruins, and Future Plans
The coastal sun has been a welcome friend, and I'm developing a pretty decent cyclist's tan. The days are spent exploring ancient Roman ruins that dot the landscape, their crumbling stones whispering stories of a different era. It’s humbling to think of the centuries of travelers who have passed this way before me.
What’s more, I’m finding that the best perks of this journey are completely free. The warmth of the sun, a swim in the sea, the kindness of a stranger offering water. Soon, I’ll be heading back inland, climbing into the mountains to meet up with some friends. After that, it’s time to sit down with a map and plan the final leg of the adventure—the long ride all the way down to Sicily for the autumn.